Monday and a Davidson Forced March through Porto

Dear Reader,  we are now ready to depart from Mira for a couple of days and explore the beauty of the more northern climes of Portugal.  I woke early this morning, and headed off on my regular morning walk in the woods near Mira.  I walked a total of 5km before breakfast,  and when I returned, Becky was up and ready to meet the day.  We ate the regular wonderful breakfast that is always ready here in Mira of cheeses, olives, sausages, and all manner of fruit, accompanied by the most wonderful aromatic coffee you could imagine.  After breakfast,  since out laundry was still on the line from the last night, and there was a heavy mist in the air,  we packed a small overnight bag from what we had left in the luggage,  and my friends at Mira said that they would bring in our laundry once it was dry.

After quick goodbyes,  and more directions on things that we absolutely MUST SEE while we are in Porto region,  we headed off on the highway north of Mira toward the river Douro and the region where Port wine has traditionally been produced.  Ny friend Silverio once again cautions me not to but from the cellars that I will find there,  as his friend knows the producers well, and when I know which ones I really like,  he will get it for me for far less than that charge tourists.  He says, go to the cellars.  Taste all the varieties,  but DO NOT BUY!!!

Leaving the beautiful friendly village of Mira

The GPS leads us to Porto

On the A20 North coming in to Porto

After about a one hour drive,  we found ourselves in Porto.  The Hotel was not exactly what I thought I had booked.  It was not a Hotel,  but rather a Hostel.  The room was nothing more than four bare was and a bed.  The man at the front desk was extremely grumpy, and had all the personality of a wet dish rag.  Still,  we were in this beautiful and historic city of Europe, the price was extremely good, even if the amenities were non-existent.  We would only be staying here for one night,  and it was clean, and the bed comfortable.  There are far worse ways to explore the world.

Once we had settled our things in the very small room, we headed off on the walking tour I had charted through the city.  About a kilometre from our hostel, there was a very famous cafe that Trip Advisor swore that no trip to Porto was complete without visiting.  Once we walked there, it was obvious for two reasons.  First,  there was a long line of people waiting to get in,  and second,  the architecture of this magnificent old place was so beautiful,  that one simply had to get inside to see the rest of it.

Awaiting a table at the Cafe Majestic

Looking through the amazing Cafe Menu

a little view of the incredible decor

Enjoying cappucino.

We waited for about 20 minutes to get a table,  and finally were seated. The young woman who served us was incredibly personable, and she spoke several languages, and spoke all of them VERY well.  She quickly arrived with both water and cappuccino,  and also brought a plate of tuna paté, virgin olive oil, and black olives.  Having to pass on the bread meant also having to miss out on the olive oil and tuna,  but the olives -- a guilty pleasure of mine -- were outstanding.

Lunch consisted of a sandwich for becky and a Omelette Zingara for myself.  Service was fast and very friendly,  and we were soon enjoying the fabulous food as well as the beautiful ambience.

A cup of cappucino

Beautiful and plentiful breads ... I only wish I could have tried them

My delicious omelette filled with cheese and pancetta Bacon and topped with mushrooms.

After the Majestic, we headed off in search of Livraria Lello.  This beautiful book store on the university campus was noted for the beautiful painted ceilings.  When we arrived there there was a two hour wait to get inside, and so we opted for a picture outside and carried on with our walk.

Livrario Lello 

Se Catedral

Looking down the busy crowded streets of Porto

Walking streets 

Ponto do Dom Luis

Along the river Douro in prime Port wine producing territory

After the Livrario, we were off to the nearby Cathedral of Porto.  unfortunately,  the Catehdral was closed to visitors on a Monday, as was the Clerigos Tower,  but it was still a magnificent and impressive building from the outside.

Next stop was at the Railway station.  Once again,  this station housed the traditional blue mosaics that tell the story of the people of Portugal.

Blue mosaics tell the stories of the people

More Mosaics

More Mosaics still.

When we had left the railway station it was further downhill to the river Douro.  There,  we came out next to the Ponto Do Dom Luis.  This bridge, as you can likely tell by the looks of it, was designed by the Eiffel, and looks very much like his tower in Paris.  At the time that it was built, it was the longest span of bridge in the world,  and had two levels to cross the river. The top one carries the city trams, while the lower one was for the car and foot traffic.  The bridge was filled with people walking and cars were bumper to bumper, but the slow walk was worth every bit of effort, as the are of the Douro on the opposite side was where all the Port wine cellars were located.  Becky and I availed ourselves of the opportunity to tour the Burmester Cellar.  In the interests of time,  we took the tour in Spanish, and i translated to becky after each segment of the tour as we walked to the next stop along the way.  We were well and truly educated in the science and the art of making beautiful Port,  and then taken to a tasting room where we got the chance to try several varieties.

Entering the very old Burmester Cellar

Tasting Ports

 My first hope was that since Becky has never been a big fan of sweet wines,  I might get to finish off the samples that she was given,  it seems that for better of worse does not go so far as "for sharing your Porto with your husband."

Leaving the Port region behind,  we once again crossed over the Dom Luis Bridge,  but now,  on the bank of the river, we had come down hundreds of metres from where our Hotel was situated in the city.  Neither Becky nor I was terribly excited with the prospects of climbing back up that distance after our long walking tour,  and so for 2.50 Euros,  we got into a Funicular that took us up from the river level to about half the level of where we would get back to our Hotel.  Once there,  we found a lovely place to enjoy a good yet inexpensive dinner.  We both enjoyed a steak with salad and the most delicious rice we had ever tasted.

On the Funicular riding back up the cliff away from the port Cellar region of Porto

Our wonderful steak dinner on the cliff overlooking the Douro river in Porto, Portugal

As we waited for our dinner to be brought to our table, I visited a little stand that offered the usual Vinho Tinto that has become such a part of eating and socializing here.  I inquired of the young woman about the various types of Red wine she had, and she informed me that it was currently happy hour,  and that until 7:30 when you bought one glass of a select group of wines for 2.50,  you got a second glass from the same bottle for free.  Of course that was good news after several hours of walking the very tough hilly terrain of this worm dry city.  I bought the original two glasses, and at about the time our dinner arrived, had to go and get another pair to enjoy with the meal.  So, it seems is life in Portugal.

This lovely young lady pours us the second glass of Vinho Tinto

Dinner was huge and there was no reason that we needed anything extra, and yet the same little place offered fresh homemade gelato, and that was more temptation than I could really stand.  I have often said, " I can resist anything except temptation."  We soon had a small dish each of beautiful gelato.  I had Port wine and fresh mint,  while Becky had to try the dark chocolate.  Having eaten my own, and sampled hers,  I would be hard pressed to say which one was better.  they were both delicious.

Port Wine and Mint Gelato

What remains of dark chocolate Gelato

With that extra fortification from our gelato, and with our rest sitting looking down the funicular tracks to the Douro river,  we were ready to walk the last 2km back to our austere place at the Residencia Bela Star Hostel.  Never did a bed look more inviting in all my experience.

Having said this,  I have not been in that lovely bed while I have written you this chronicle of a beautiful Monday in Porto, dear reader,  as the only place where one can catch the wifi signal in this lovely room,  is if one is sitting on the floor directly next to the wall by the entrance to our room, and so I have opted to go to the lobby to bring you all up to date on our adventures in Porto.

Tomorrow we will venture further north to explore Braga before returning to the home of dear Silverio and Lourdes.  Stay tuned tomorrow... who knows what might be ahead.