Friday in Coimbra

Having caught up my reporting this morning,  I have only to tell you of the trip we took we took today to experience Coimbra.  While Coimbra is a bustling moderns city, like Braga, it has roots that run VERY deep.  The GPS led us into the  very centre of the city,  and when we parked, we found that we were situated on the campus of the University of Coimbra,  which is the oldest University in Europe.  Becky and I looked around the University campus and explored the Seminaria,  which is the oldest portion of this very ancient university.

The map that we were furnished by students who were making their tuition by selling these maps to tourists was not terribly helpful or accurate, and so we began to just search around more or less blind.  Within a couple of blocks, it was clear that we had made a find of one of the places that was highlighted on the student map.  We were at Se Nova Catedral.  This remarkable Cathedral looked anything but new by our Canadian standards,  and Becky and I went in to explore. 

This cathedral,  which was built to replace the Medieval cathedral which also stands in the city centre, was filled with wonderful artwork.  The photos posted below should almost make it unnecessary for me to say anything about it.

Still feeling that our student map did little to help us navigate the narrow streets of old Coimbra,  we asked the Cathedral Guide for assistance.  He pointed at a very steep cobblestone street (Barely wide enough for one of the very small cars that are so often in use in Europe) and we headed off.  To say that the street was steep is a REAL understatement.  The steepness, when coupled with the uneven cobblestones was almost Becky’s undoing as she took several falls.  We made our way down this crazy path past Roman Ruins, and just as we were about to give up and think that the guide at the Cathedral had led us astray,  the ancient stones of Se Velho Catedral suddenly broke onto the horizon.  This enormous edifice had stood there for over 1000 years, and continued as a testament to the faith of this city that has stood firm for all these centuries. 

Inside, the old cathedral even the bare stone walls bear testament to the faith of those who struggled to bring those great stones together.  Apses and side chapels held the remains of Bishops from the 11^th-14^th centuries. 

We ventured out into the Gothic Cloisters where more famed Coimbrians were interred, including the first Governor of Coimbra, who served from 1064-1091.  The whole place just dripped with the history of the faithful who had come here to connect themselves with their God.

After exploring the Cathedral, we continued down that crazy little road,  but by now, the thought was certainly ringing around my head, that every step we took down would be one that we would have to trace back up in order to return to our car. 

Along the path, we passed a little café where the smell of wonderful food nearly overwhelmed us.  It was about the right time for lunch, and so we stopped and shared a Seafood omelet.  This omelet was even better than one could have expected. With Lunch and a glass of wine behind us,  we found a stairwell that we expected would take us to the same place as that treacherous street.  We stopped to buy a few little gifts, and then headed down the stairs in hoped of finding Mosiero do Santa Cruz.  After only a couple of false starts, and with a little help from Google maps on my phone,  we eventually made our way into this incredibly old Monastery.

Although smaller in scale than either of the Cathedrals, this monastery did not pale comparatively in terms of beauty. 

It was now time to head back up the mountain to retrieve our car.  Several times along the way, we had to stop so Becky could catch her breath.  The walk was tough,  but eventually we found our way to the university, and eventually to the car.  We snaked our way back down the mountain on the very very old cobbled roads until we were out into the newer portions of Coimbra. There,  we found a modern shopping centre, where I was not only able to find the Filigree heart of Portugal charm from Pandora for someone who loves here bracelet,  but also a Gelateria where we got to stop for the best Chocolate Mint Gelato I think I have ever had. 

We returned to Mira late in the afternoon, and took a brief nap before sitting down to write this chronicle.

Tomorrow, our hosts are making a Feijuada because Becky and I are leaving on Sunday, and because the Brazilians who are also visiting Mira are leaving on Monday.  The 12 Brazilians will come to share the feast. Joao and Zinha and David will also be joining us.  It will be a great traditional farewell celebration.