So I have been negligent in reporting on our activity for a couple of reasons. The first is that we took a day almost entirely as “downtime” As Usual, I woke quite early and headed off into the woods. I was determined that this time I would locate the corn mills that ran on the water of one of the little rivers here in Mira. As it turns out that mill was about 3 km into the woods from the house here in Mira.
Returning to the house, I enjoyed a great breakfast and talked with
our hosts. When Becky woke up, we both sought out a quiet place to hole up
with our novels and simply relax. At
lunchtime, Silverio lit up the barbeque, this time loading the grill with fresh
fish from the ocean. It was a feast fit
for a king. In the way of much of
Portuguese cooking, the small fish
needed to be picked up and eaten with the fingers. The larger “red fish” was more conducive to using a fork.
After finishing our lunch, Becky and I made the 7km trip to Praia de
Mira where the plan was to enjoy – and photograph the sun setting over the
beach and what that evening was a very calm Atlantic. In Praia, we sat down for dinner of Steak and
Shrimp before taking up our position to watch the sunset. Sadly, due to the fires, the vibrant colours
of the sunset were rather muted on this night.
Still, it was a lovely way to finish a day. When the sun had set, we stopped at a Gelateria for a scoop of ice
cream and then returned to the house and turned in early.
The sun setting of the Ocean at Praia de Mira |
Another shot of the sunset |
In the morning, my walk led me on beyond
the Mills another km to find Lagoa de Mira.
This peaceful fresh water lake is hidden completely in the trees, and is
one of the area’s best kept secrets. The
locals love to go and swim at this place, because the ocean water is often very
cold, but this more shallow lake warms up nicely. There are small picnic areas set up all
around the lake. I took a few pictures
of my newest discovery, and headed back, having walked 8km before breakfast.
Lagoa de Mira. a 4km walk each way. |
The end of my walk for today |
By the time I returned, Becky was up and
functioning, and so we had coffee and time to read and chat. Silverio and
Lourdes were in town for the morning looking after a few matters, and so we
enjoyed some quiet time.
When he returned, Silverio instructed me in how to light the wood-fired water heater. While doing this I noticed the wookfired stone oven that Lourdes uses to cook bread and other such things. I have always been fascinated by such things.
The outer opening of the stone oven |
The actual oven itself. |
Lunch was made up of Portuguese style
roasted chicken and fried potatoes with a huge green salad. It was just the
right thing before heading off on another adventure. At the last moment though, Becky decided that
she did not feel up to going on the trip planned that day.
I had inquired about Eucalyptus Honey that
I saw at the Mercado. Silverio insisted
that what was at the market was not good quality. I needed to visit “the producer”. It sounded like the ominous title of some
Mafioso in a Godfatehr film. After
Lunch, Joao, Silverio Zinha and I headed
off to meet the producer.
Peanuts and Red wine. Hospitality at its finest everywhere you go. |
Once there,
I took the obligatory tour of the gardens. Here, he added to the usual crops of
Nectarines, Peaches, Figs, Olives, grapes, apples and pears, the added bonus of
Bananas. Of course, he insisted that I
try all of the fruit from his garden. We
then proceeded into his honey production facility where he told me about the
problems that beekeepers in Portugal were experiencing with Asian bees that
came and overtook the hives of the native bees.
He showed me one of these enormous bees that he had killed
recently. It was easily three times the
size of a regular honey bee. The
gathering in the honey house seemed to require that a huge bag of peanut come
out, and that decanters of his homemade
red wine be filled. It was another great
opportunity to meet the real people of Portugal, and to experience the land as
its people experience it. I was sad that
becky had chosen to pass on this trip.
In the garden of "the Producer" |
When we got home, there was a surprise in
the courtyard. Someone had dropped off a
gift of 250 pounds of potatoes and 6 chickens.
The bags containing the chickens lay still next to the potatoes, and I
thought that they were dead, but when we
got near, both bags jumped to life. It seems that Silverio will not be in the
business of raising chickens.
The story behind this gift was that many
years ago when Silverio was an engineer on a fishing vessel, one of the men on that vessel took a very bad
fall. Silverio championed his cause and
insisted that the boat get to Newfoundland as soon as possible. After a 2 hour brain surgery, the man recovered. The family has since felt that they needed to
make such offerings of gratitude.
The woman who had delivered the gift
returned, and soon there was a great gathering in the courtyard of Silverio’s
home. John and Zinha arrived shortly
thereafter and helped to get an appropriate pen for the chickens. The neighbours came over and asked if Becky
and I might come over for a few minutes because they had just cooked a huge pot
of clams and wanted to share them with us.
Becky declined the offer, but I was soon enjoying the most incredible
fresh clams while watching the horrific news of what had just happened in
Barcelona.
A huge pot of clams shared with friends as an afternoon treat. |
When the clams were gone, Joao asked if I would come and help him to
feed his livestock. I think that he
expected that I would be frightened to go in to slop a pig, or to gather eggs
from under the hens. He didn’t factor in
that I grew up on a farm. The job was done
in short order, and we returned to the house of Silverio.
There,
Lourdes had prepared a dinner of the most delicious rice with
Shrimp. I was not hungry, and neither
was Lourdes, and yet both of us managed to eat two dishes. Those who were hungry managed to do even
better.
Our stomachs filled, we turned in. This is perhaps the thing that worries me
most about this time in Portugal. The
evening meal is served directly before bedtime with no time or effort to burn
off the meal. I don’t want to gain back
any of the weight that I have lost.
Hence why each day begins with such a blistering walk.
Today,
we head over to Coimbra to visit Se Nova Catedral, Se Vieho Catedral,
Portugal do Pequenirios, the oldest University in Europe, Perredo da Saudade,
and Mosteiro e Convento y Igreja da
Rainha Santa Isabel.
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