Thursday night and Friday at Mira and Aguedo

After taking a little quiet time to write my Thursday blog post, Becky and I went downstairs and once again the bottle of wine was opened, and the talk and laughter around the table began.  I think I have enjoyed more wine in the last three days than in the previous three years.

At around 9:00 Lourdes served a Caldo Verde,  which was a rich soup of carrots, potatoes, sausage, and loads of Kale.  It was absolutely wonderful.  Exhausted, we fell into bed at around 11:30.

This morning I woke early, and while everyone was still sleeping I went across the street to the cafe circa Duplo (double espresso) before I headed out on a 4km walk along my favourite path.  Today I noticed that the path was lined with wild black raspberries.  All along my walk today I repeatedly stopped to fill my hand once again with this sweet wild treat.

When I returned to the house, I sat with Lourdes and had coffee, figs, and some other fresh fruit.  Today's plan is to visit the Mercado here in Mira, and then Becky and I are going to drive to Aguedo and do a self-designed walking tour.

Following breakfast we loaded into the car and went to Portomar for the Mercado.  I was immediately put in mind of so many great markets in Mexico and South and Central America.  I quickly bought a kilo of Chorico picante and a huge Quesjo flamenco.

After that,  we began finding interesting gifts for family back at home.  

Wednesday night and Thursday in Mira, Costo Nova and Aviera

Following a very much needed nap, we came back downstairs to a huge dinner of seafood stew.  It was absolutely delicious,  but Silverio thought immediately that I didn’t like it because I did not take a very large serving.  It was wonderful, but it had only been tow hours since we had been fed a huge “snack” of fruits and cheeses and sausage. 

Following dinner, we headed out into the village of Mira and walked a coulple kilometres on the beach road. On our return,  both these intrepid travellers were so tired that we fell into bed and fell fast asleep.

I woke late on Thursday morning,  and since my dear wife was still in bed,  and our hosts were not to be seen,  I went and explored the same few kilometres of the beach road on my own in the sunlight.  It was a beautiful walk, and a great way to start the day.  Upon my return,  Becky was ready to get up, and so we were once again treated to a huge plate of fresh figs and cheeses as a breakfast.  Speaking as one who usually doesn’t eat much for breakfast,  this was a veritable feast.

After a little time socializing with Silverio and Lourdes, we went to the home of their friend João who had prepared a meal of Feijuada, a very traditional meal of beans, vegetables and various kinds of meats, slowly stewed together.  Silverio’s daughter was also here visiting from France,  and so to have enough room,  we ate at the table of the outdoor summer kitchen.  As this lunch was being prepared, the wine bottles were once again opened,  and you could not set your glass down without it being refilled with beautiful red wine.  While the Feijuada was finishing, we went for a walk to give João a chance to show us his gardens.  First we met the pig that he would butcher in December.  Afterwards, we saw his orchard of plums, apples,  pears, and English Walnuts.  At the very back of the garden there were also the most beautiful wild rasberries. With a handful of these berries, we headed to the summer kitchen to enjoy the meal.

João proved himself to be an amazing cook, and the feijuada was phenominal. The company was even better.  We talked and joked, ate and drank, and enjoyed the relaxed environment. Lunch lingered until nearly 4:00.

After Lunch,  Silverio went off to assist a neighbour to dig his potatoes, while Lourdes accompanied Becky and I on an exploration of the beach and coastal region. Our first stop along the way was the town of Costa Nova.   This beautiful seaside town is filled with traditional Portuguese architecture, but the buildings are all painted in bright and different colours.  The colour that you choose to paint your house bears testimony to the colour of your chosen Football team. Judging by the variety as you drive down the street,  there must be some real rivalries in these neighbourhoods.  It is a total delight to the eyes.  We got to the beach, which was far more calm than yesterday,  and Becky got her first opportunity to get her feet into the Atlantic Ocean.

From Costa Nova, we carried on to Aviera.  This city is just across the river from Costa Nova, and has smaller rivers running through it.  Beautiful traditional river boats take tourists on to see the  city from the riverview.  We walked through the city to get to the old rail station.  This station is decorated inside and out with the blue mosaic tiles that are a part of the local artistry.  Each of the mosaics depicts another part of the local history.  Sadly, the interior of the station was closed due to construction,  but we got to se many of the mosaics on the outside of it.

On the walk back to the car, we stopped at a little café to get ice cream and a bottle of water, before falling exhausted into the seats of the car, and driving back to Mira. 

As I write this,  I am stretched out on the bed.  Becky’s breathing certainly sounds like she is sleeping. It has been a very full day, and there is still dinner and most likely an evening walk still in our future.

Portugal

We have been here in Portugal for a couple of days, and it has been wonderful.  Upon arrival, there was a little hiccup with getting our rental car.  the line-up for EuRopcar was incredibly long. It took nearly four hours before we were on our way to find our Bed and breakfast.  Becky loves our tiny Reneault Twingo.  She says it is "Cute"  the same thing she occasionally calls me,  but it isn't something I particularly like to be called.  The car has just enough room for us and our luggage. It certainly wouldn't make much of a family car.  Still, for us, it could not be better.  We headed off into the city of Lisboã, and within 20 minutes we were settling in to our room at the Bed and Breakfast Familia Macedo.  The home is in a very old part of Lisboã, and it is furnished to period with the most beautiful pieces of antique Portuguese woodwork.

We have been teased quite a bit that the first place that we stayed on our honeymoon set us up with twin beds.  The twin beds would not have been a problem had it not been that the combination of the fact that they were little better than a bed of nails, and that we were both painfully jet-lagged,  neither of us enjoyed any real sleep.  Before bed,  we ventured off into the city in search of an interesting place to stop for dinner.  Becky,  who has not travelled before is very frightened of getting lost, and of pick-pockets and other criminals. Like my parents before me,  I am the original intrepid traveller.  I walk out into the place and enjoy everything about the experience -- including the setbacks.  The setbacks on this trip were actually  very few.  The GPS in my phone had some difficulty with the closeness of the buildings to the street, and so sometimes got confused on where we actually were.  In our search for a place that had lots of Gluten Free options named Celerro, we actually found an even better place simply referred to a Restaurant Tipico Portugal. There,  we ordered a mixed meat platter for two,  which to my delight also included pieces of both lamb and rabbit,  which Becky had no interest in trying.  WE got our first opportunity to try the amazing Portuguese wines with our dinner.
After dinner, we stopped at a tiny liquor store where I was able to get the first item that will be added to my collection of world Liquors.  It is a product called Ginja, which is a cherry infused whisky.  It was delicious,  and at 10 Euros for a Litre, I could hardly resist.

Upon returning to the Bed and breakfast, we relaxed, but as said before,  neither of us could sleep.
The following morning, at the advice of our host, we headed off to the Metro station at Intendente.  There we were able to buy a day pass to all the Metro transit system for 6 Euros.  Becky was terrified by getting on the subway of a major European capital,  but we quickly found ourselves down at the Ocean's edge, and enjoyed a nice Espresso there before boarding a bus to the Belem portion of the city.

At Belem, we ventured to the Museum of Architecture.  It was the most beautiful architectural building you could ever imagine.  After that,  I finally found a place where I could get some Gluten-free options for a brunch -- though it was already noon.  I had a remarkable bowl of Split pea soup with mint. I would never have though to adding mint to pea soup,  but I must admit that it will be finding its way into my homemade pea soup from now on.  As well, I enjoyed a Chick pea salad with Cod.  Washed down with a glass of white wine,  the meal was perfect for the hungry traveller.
At lunch, I mentioned that I wanted to add a Pandora charm to Becky's collection.  She was quick to go online and discover that the Pandora store for Lisboã was a mere 2 km from where we were sitting.  Google maps is not so clear on the terrain that the said 2 km covers.  By the time we got to the store,  we were both quite tired,  and only discovered that the store was closed for the afternoon siesta time.  When it re-opened,  it didn't take very long for Becky to find the Pandora that she wanted to remember her time in Portugal,  and there was a quick mutual consent that we would use our unlimited transit pass to get ourselves back to downtown.

Once we returned to the bed and Breakfast, we loaded the car, and headed on to Fatima.  Little did I know as we pulled up to our hotel,  that this very night would be one of the processions at this Holy Shrine.  Our hotelier told us that we must go and buy Candles for the procession and go at 9:30 to take part.  He also told us that we should go to his restaurant around the corner for dinner. His thoughts on both showed up to be very good.  For dinner, I had a wonderful piece of Roast beef -- translated in the menu as Cow in the oven -- and Becky had Codfish with assorted shellfish.  Both meals were outstanding.  WE then got our candles and headed to the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima for prayers.  We were there quite early,  and still there were hundreds of people there ahead of us.  Bu the time the prayers began,  there were well over 1000 people there to pray,  and this was simply a Tuesday evening in August. As we prepared for prayer,  some pilgrims would come along the pth crawling on their knees for hundreds of yards as they prayed, in order to demonstrate their devotion.  The Rosary was then led by several priests in 10 different languages before the procession headed out around the huge play at this shrine with 1000's of people who were joined in prayer.  Looking onto the filled square filled with raised lighted candles,  one could hardly help but be moved by the faith that was present in this place.

When the Procession ended,  we returned to our hotel,  where I started to experience back pain related to the amount I had been on my feet.  I hardly slept a wink for this second night.
In the morning, my dear wife,  as usual, was not ready to get out of bed very early,  and as I had never really slept,  I went out in search of a nice coffee shop where I could get a Duplo espresso.  On the way I also discovered a pastry shop that had wonderful meringues (which are of course gluten free).  By the time I returned to the room, Becky was awake and ready to meet the day.  We returned to the Shrine to get some pictures of the magnitude of the place, and then we were on our way to Mira and the home of my friends Silverio and Lourdes Ferreira.

Since we were in no real hurry,  we went up the A1 to Coimbra and did a little preliminary exploration there.  It is a beautiful medieval city,  and bears a return to further explore.  We then continued to Praia de Mira, which is the beach near Mira where we will be staying.  The water was extremely rough,  so we satisfied ourselves that we now knew where we would gone on a perfect day,  and then went for a lunch of Shrimp in Garlic and Olive Oil, fries and Vinho Tinto.

After lunch we got back in the car to go to the home of Silverio and Lourdes.  We got a tour of the fabulous gardens,  and then sat down over fresh fruit, cheese and yet more wine, to catch up.
At present,  Becky is down for the count,  and I am writing.  Silverio and Lourdes are cooking a dinner for the four of us.  These first few days of our time together have been quite outstanding.
Silverio and I will sit down together tomorrow to map out some of the other amazing sites that simply must be seen while we are here in the central coastal region.  I know already that I would have no trouble falling in love with this country.

Preparations

As of today,  I am two weeks away from beginning my annual August vacation.  But at the same time, I am three weeks from heading off on an exciting adventure with my new wife, which is a honeymoon, and an adventure at the same time.  We will be heading to Portugal for a two week self-guided tour of that beautiful and historic land.  I promise that as we go and take in all that we can, I will send up a blog post each day to fill you in now what is going on,  and send up pictures of the things that we are seeing and doing.

Shortly after we announced that we were engaged,  one of my former students, (The Reverend Silerio Ferreira) called and offered us the use of his home in Portugal for a place to visit on our honeymoon.  It was the sort of offer that would have been impossible to say no to.  It made it so that on the budget of a very ordinary Honeymoon trip,  we could have the experience of two weeks in a great European country. Becky had really never travelled before,  so Portugal was a great idea in her books, and I had not been to Portugal myself, so it offered me an opportunity to see more of the world, and so I quickly booked discount flights online.

So we will depart Pearson Airport on Sunday August 6th  at midnight.  Dear friends have offered to stay in our home in Camden East for the time we are away,  and tend the lawns and gardens and the pool.  We will arrive in Lisbõa on August 7th at just after noon.  I have arranged a car rental for the two days that we are there, and so we can tour around and see everything possible.

Beginning in Lisbõa, we will enjoy a half a day of walking tour there in the capital before spending a night in a Bed and Breakfast in the old city called the Bead and Breakfast Family Medera.  By staying overnight in Lisbõa, it affords us a chance to take a second day walking in the Belem district of the city.

That second night we are booked into another hotel in Fatima called the Resedencia Silva.  As you will find in a much earlier blog,  I have made a large number of pilgrimages to many of the world's Holy sites,  and knowing that I would be passing through the Pilgrimage site at Fatima,  I felt I just had to stop and see the place where the three children once saw the Blessed Virgin and take an opportunity to pray.  After visiting the Shrine of the Holy Mother,  we will finally continue on to the home of my dear friend Silveria in Mira.

After a night in Mira and all the travel time getting there,  I have planned for a day at the beach at Mira  It is one of the most beautiful beaches in mainland Portugal, and so it seems like a great way to spend a little time in rest and relaxation.  The Market at Praia de Mira is known for good cheeses, good wines,  and wonderful fresh seafood, so I anticipate that I will be cooking a good meal on this night to be enjoyed with a nice bottle of wine.

After another night at the home in Mira,  We will head out to explore the Medieval city of Coimbra.  I managed to arrange a hop on hop off bus and riverboat tour that allows us to explore all the city at our own pace all day, and includes entry to all the city museums for $23.00 CAD so that we can take in as much as possible.   That night we will return to sleep in Mira.

Since I don't want to keep too heavy a pace, as I want Becky to return well rested, and without a flare up of her Rheumatoid Arthritis,  I anticipate that the following day will once again be spend at the Beach in Praia de Mira,  and perhaps with a visit to Monumento dos Pescadores.  With what I have heard of the local mercado,  I fear that another visit for another gourmet meal of seafood and cheese will certainly be in order.

There are so many interesting places I have found that are within an hour's drive from our homeless, that it is hard to decide on where to head next.  I am thinking that the following day will involve another walking tour of the Town of Figueira da Foz.  I want to visit the Palacio  Sotto, Mosteiro de Santa Maria em Paião, COnviento de Sieça and the Mostiero de Seiça.  I am still researching local restaurants in Coimbra and Figueira da Foz to arrange where we will eat while we are exploring.

The following day,  we will head north up the coast to Porto -- The home of Port wine.   Here i have mapped out a first day of walking in the old city that promises to be incredible with cafés and Se Catedral, Torre de Clerigo, and the great bridge, followed by a traditional Porto lunch and then Port tasting before dinner on the way back to our Hotel in Porto.  Staying over the night in Porto allows us to have another full day of exploring the city and a chance to visit Rua Santa Caterina (the famed shopping district of Porto) -- a stop set apart especially for Becky. We will return to Mira for this night,  and stay close to Mira for the remaining 4 nights of our stay.  On the 20th, we will have an early morning start so that we can have a half day more of exploring Lisbõa before returning to the airport for a 6:45pm  flight back to land in Toronto at 10:00 pm on August 20th.

To me,  it sounds like a remarkable adventure.  I'm speaking to all my Portuguese friends who might be able to tell me the absolute "must see" places in Portugal so that Becky and I can make every moment count.